T.I.A- THIS IS AFRICA...
February 19 2008- Day 1
We made it across the middle passage! Our ship arrived in Capetown, South Africa this morning at 0500. I went out to the front of the boat to watch the sunrise over Table Mountain. For those of you who don’t know what table mountain is….it is a mountain that looks like a table top; when the clouds form over the mountain it looks like the table is covered in a table cloth. I had an FDP today for my HIV/AIDS communication class from 1300-1750, so I was kind of limited to what I could do for the day because I had to be back to the ship by 1300. I got off the ship and went to a tour guide agency with a bunch of people to book a Township visit (I will tell you about it when I actually do it). I then walked around the waterfront area with Meggie, Brittany, Ash, Erika, and Matt. I can’t believe that I am in South Africa, I can’t believe where I am on the map, I am so far away! The waterfront area was so pretty, especially the view of Table Mountain. After walking around, we went out to eat at a place called St.Elmo’s Pizzeria. I ate a delicious meatball pizza and drank a nasty vanilla milkshake. Meggie and I left lunch a little early to run back to the boat to meet up with our group for the FDP. We sprinted through the waterfront and made it back just in time, everyone was already waiting outside.
About our FDP- Bush Radio…so Bush Radio was started by the Bushmen (basically indigenous people against Apartheid) to spread awareness about HIV/AIDS. This is the information I knew going into the radio station, and this is the information I know coming out of the radio station. We were given a tour of the radio station but no description of what they actually do. Then we all sat in a conference room and were supposed to watch 3 videos on bush radio being started and what not. I’m a bit disappointed with this FDP because I could have easily watched these videos on the trip…I would have liked it if the people that worked there actually SPOKE to us about how the radio station was started! On a positive note, I got to be on bush radio with a few other SASers. We just said our name and where we were from and spoke about SAS on Bush Radio live! All in all, I was disappointed with watching videos for a few hours about a radio station, when I only had 6 days in port…That is why I left early! Meggie and I took a ghetto African cab back to the ship 2 hours early. I was not willing to spend a few hours watching videos, there is just too much to do in South Africa. I made it back to the ship in time to go on a township visit.
1700- Township visit with Candice, Kristin, Hilton, Andrew, Walter, Andrew:
I got to visit the township called Langa. Langa is made up of 120,000 residents. On our way to Langa our guide took us on a drive past District 6. He stopped to show us the Circumcision field; at this field the boys who speak the Khosa language are circumcised in order to enter manhood. After viewing the circumcision field, we stopped in the middle of the township. As we were pulling in, about 50 little kids swarmed the car, they were so excited to see us, you have no idea! Within seconds of getting out of the car I had about 20 little arms around my waist and reaching up to me. These kids just wanted to be hugged and held and given proper attention. I picked one little girl up and swung her around in the air- her face just lit up. As soon as I put her back on the ground, there were 20 kids with their arms raised at me for me to pick them up and swing them around too! After a few minutes of swinging these kids around and giving them hugs, I took some pictures with them and of them. They were so excited to view the pictures on my camera and see what they looked like. These kids don’t own anything like a digital camera, and they probably don’t own a mirror to see what they even look like. They just wanted me to keep taking pictures with them and showing it to them. I gave the kids my sunglasses to wear for some of the pictures…so cute! When it was time for us to get back in the car and continue on our township visit, I literally had to pry these kids off of me. This was probably the most attention they had received in a long time. It was sad because they didn’t even ask me for money, they asked me for bubble gum and pens for school. We got back in the car, and our tour guide took us to a sheebbeen in the township. A sheebbeen is a club that only men belonged to and had illegal political meetings during the apartheid era. During these meetings, the men would drink home brewed illegal alcohol made by the women. The women used their own recipe to make this illegal alcohol; it contained 50-60% alcohol. This illegal alcohol is called Umqombhothi. The men now use the sheebbeen as a local social club, and the woman still brew the umqombhothi. We all got the opportunity to go to this sheebbeen and sit and drink the umqombhothi with some locals. This is no fancy club. In fact it is basically a shack with a few wooden benches that the men sit on to sit and drink. So we sat on the wooden benches and drank the umqombhothi from a metal bucket that they all passed around. It kind of looked like dirty soapy water, but we all had to try it as part of the experience…not so tasty! (maybe this is why my stomach has been hurting? I actually think I got a parasite in the Amazon, not the bucketJ)
After we left the sheebeen, we passed a lady on the street that was selling lamb heads for dinner. They were freshly cut off the lamb and piled up on a table for people to buy and eat, just imagine the visual. After seeing the lamb heads, we got back into our car and visited the hostels. You have no idea the poverty that these families live in. The room was about the size of my bedroom at home; it had 3 beds in that one room. Each bed was for 1 family, and each family had a significant number of children. These were not queen, or full size beds, they were regular twin beds for a whole family to share. Once again, the kids who occupied this area were just hungry for attention. All they wanted to do was have us give them hugs, hold their hands, and take their pictures. They LOVED taking their picture and then seeing it. I wish I could send them all the pictures I took of them! The don’t have pictures hanging up in their home, they are lucky if they have a full wall to keep them sheltered.
After our visit to the hostels, we went to a township called Khayelitsha, which was in Site C. 28% of this area is infected with AIDS. Our purpose for coming here was to go to Vicki’s B&B for a home-cooked dinner in a township. Vicki has been living here since 1989 and has had people at her B&B for 9 years. Vicki told us that she enjoys having this B&B because it spreads a good word about the community. This is not the bread and breakfast that you would typically stay in, but it was by far the nicest home in the township. Some other facts that I learned about Vicki was that she doesn’t own the ground that her home is on, she has to rent it from the government. Kayelitsha is the second largest township with 1.3 million residents. Families are just squished into homes and live in conditions that you could not imagine, you really have to come to one to believe that people actually live like this. Vicki has been very involved in the community for years; she has organized community meetings and parties for the children around holiday times to try and provide them with presents from people that donate around the world (she told us that these children would be so happy to even get pens for gifts during the holidays, can you imagine?). Vicki and her family cooked our group dinner, which was amazing! My favorite part of dinner was the pap, rice and bread, it was yummy! I tried other stuff she served us, but I didn’t like it, oh well! While we were eating one of Vicki’s daughters put on a CD of Alicia Keys and sang her heart out. I would say she was about 7 years old, and she was such a good singer, she loved putting on a show for people. I would love to come back to this township or one like this and help out in the community like Vicki has done so far.
After our township visit, we went to Long Street. Long Street is the center of downtown Capetown. It is in the heart of the big financial district and is the big party spot for Capetown with bars, clubs, restaurants, and shops. Long Street is in fact very LONG. The first bar we went to was Dubliner- an Irish pub that had a live band that sang American music! Since I am in South Africa I had to experience the South African beer (Castle) and Irish car bombs?! The bar was filled with tons of SAS kids and a bunch of locals. SAS kind of took over this part of Long Street. After Dubliner, I went to Jo-burg and then Fiction. Jo-burg was a club that had a crazy DJ mixing some music and everyone just had a good time dancing on the dance floor, and continuing to drink some South African Beer. Friction had a porch that overlooked Long Street that we all hung out on and drank. All of these bars were on Long Street and were right next to each other or across the street from one another. Each bar I went into was filled with a ton of SAS kids, it was a lot of fun! I had to meet with my Safari group to go to the airport at 0315, So I figured that 0200 would be a good time to head back to the ship, finish packing my bag and meet my Safari Group.
Feb 20, 2008- Day 2, but I haven’t gone to sleep yet so it’s kind of like a long day 1?!
I left for the airport at 0315. There were 60 of us doing this Kruger Safari indy, so we took a double decker coach bus to the airport. I heard that on the way to the airport some kid forgot his passport on the ship, so we turned around and went back to the boat. I don’t remember this happening; I slept the whole bus ride! When we got to the airport I attempted to order kids chicken fingers, but instead they brought me cut up pieces of grilled chicken…how hard is it to order chicken fingers?! I sent the grilled chicken strips back to get nasty grilled cheese instead; it was made with cheddar cheese- who does that? Don’t they know grilled cheese is made with American Cheese. Anyways, I am eating this nasty grilled cheese and our flight boards in 40 minutes, so people start getting up to go through security. I didn’t realize that everyone already go their boarding passes already, not me! I forgot to get my boarding pass when we first got to the airport, so I had to first wait in line to get my boarding pass. Luckily, one of my friends Meggie waited back with me. When I got to the counter the lady behind the desk goes “I’m sorry mam we have no more seats available on the flight.” I freaked out for a little bit on her because I had my ticket confirmation with me, and in a few minutes I was finally on my way through security and onto our plane.
A little bit about the plane ride to Jo’Burg- I sat in the first row of the plane and since I got on the plane so late, there was no room in my overhead for my bag, so I had to have the steward place it all the way in the back! I was kind of nervous but it worked out ok. I sat between two men from South Africa and spoke to one of them for a good amount of the 3-hour plane ride. We spoke a lot about HIV/AIDS in Africa and he told me some shocking facts!
* The average age for girls to start having intercourse is 10 years old in Capetown!
* The average age for South Africa as a whole is slightly better, but still sooo young at the age of 12.
* It is common for girls to be involved with older men. It is not looked down upon, rather it is a norm.
We arrived in Jo’Burg to get on another bus to take us to Kruger National Park for our safari. It was a 6-hour bus ride! We were lucky enough to stop off at a rest stop where I ate 1 cheeseburger and 1 chicken cheeseburger (I haven’t eaten meat in so long, it was soo good!) I slept most of the bus ride to Kruger and woke up to everyone staring out the window. Everyone was looking at elephants, yet all I saw was an alligator (you know how I am when I first wake up- very confused and in my own world). When we arrived to Kruger Park, our bus dropped us off at the wrong camping grounds, so we waited for our safari (wrangler-like) cars to come pick us up and take us to our camping grounds. All of our tents were set up for us when we got there. I have never slept in a tent before so I was pretty excited. All the tents were the same, 2 sleeping bags, 2 pillows, and a pad underneath the sleeping bag. I shared a tent with Meggie. Our tents were set up around the perimeter of the campgrounds, with a beautifully set long table underneath an open tent to seat 70 people for meals. After Meggie and I dropped our stuff off in the tent we went out on our first game drive!
9 of us go in these vehicles that look like a big Jeep Wrangler. No, we are not caged in…if the animals want to jump into the vehicle, I guess they can, but they don’t. I saw an elephant up close and personal using its trunk to eat! I also got to see giraffes, impalas, white rhinos and a ton of birds. One of the birds I saw was the kind of bird in lion king, Zazu! We got to watch a white rhino go to the bathroom in the middle of the street. So of course I took a picture of it and thought first to myself and then out loud…I wonder how long it would take for a human to make that much poop? Seriously though, I kind of wonder…my guess is 3-4 months. We got back from our game drive by 1830 because that is when our gates close to get into Malelane (the name of our campsite). We all sat around the big table and just talked and played cards. We had people there that cooked us an amazing dinner! I ate chicken cabobs, squash with corn, salad, and potatoes. Not only was the food good, but they supplied us with unlimited bottles of Red and White Wine! After our meal, we all just hung around the table, talked and drank wine and South African beer (all supplied by Siyabonna Africa- the group we did our safari with). Meggie and I eventually went back to our tent, talked for a little while, and finally went to sleep. The tents were so hot inside (lets just say we were definitely ROUGHING it!). Day 2, still kind of day 1 is finally over, I am exhausted!
February 21, 2008- Day 3
0430- I woke up to the sounds of our safari guides screaming “WAKE UP” through the mesh netting of our tent. I guess 4 hours of sleep will do. Coffee and biscuits were set up on the table for us to have before we went on our morning game drive. The coffee was powdered and we just had to add water, but I drank it anyway because I needed to wake up fast!
0530 Safari game drive. The reason that we have such an early game drive is to hopefully see animals like the lion that are out at night and in the early morning hunting for food. For this drive, my guide was Freddy and I got to go in the car with Andres, Christina, Wodka, and a few other SASers. On my morning game drive I got to see elephants, white rhinos, impalas, lions, giraffes, zebras, warthogs, bright blue birds, and Zazu birds. I don’t really know how to describe seeing the animals to everyone. It is weird to see all these animals just out there in nature rather than a zoo. It is much more exciting and real! As we were on our game drive it was normal to see elephants, and warthogs just crossing the road. I got to see mommy elephants with their babies; the baby elephants are so small compared to the adult, and the baby always walks to the side of its parent in the back, this kind of hides the baby and protects it. I also got to see the bark of a tree marked up by elephant tusks (elephants eat tree bark). As far as the lions go, I got to see male and female adult lions, as well as baby cubs. The male lions look just like Mufasa, but a LITTLE bit scarier in real life. Giraffes do indeed have very long necks, I got to watch them eat from treetops. When I was looking at the giraffes I couldn’t stop thinking about how they lay down (if they needed a pillow imagine how long it would have to be). I also learned something new about zebras. I used to think that zebras were just black and white striped animals, yet some of the ones I got to see were black, white, and BROWN striped! During this game drive we got to watch an incredible sunrise! We came back to our campgrounds at 0930 for breakfast…I feel like I have been up for a full day already and it is only 0930! I took a little nap before breakfast and then had some yogurt with fresh fruit and granola. After breakfast our guides took us to a nearby pool and a shop with souvenirs. I got my first safari hat- it looks good, reallll gooood! We swam and shopped from 1130 to 1330 and then went back to Malelane at 1400 for lunch. After lunch we went out for our second game drive of the day. I wound up going in the Jeep with all boys: Hilton, Andres, Garret, Andrew, Dave, and Max. This time I got to watch the sunset…absolutely BEAUTIFUL. On this drive I got to see one of the big five that I hadn’t gotten to see yet, the water buffalo! The water buffalo was real funny looking; it had these funny looking horns that kind of looked like pigtails sticking out/George Washington’s old hair do. I also got to see this little snake; unfortunately for this snake its head kind of got run over by a vehicle and was half smushed but wasn’t dead. We saw this snake basically dying and suffering in the middle of the road and stopped to see what it was doing. The snake was cleverly putting itself out of its own misery by stinging itself with its own poison and eventually died! Our guide told us that this was a very small but very poisonous snake. I got to see other animals on this drive, but they were animals that I had seen already in my past 2 drives…I still haven’t seen 2 of the big 5- a black rhino and a leopard. We got back to Malelane at 0630 and played cards until dinner was ready. We got served chili beef over rice and salad and once again endless amounts of beer and wine. Delicious! After dinner we all just sat around the table and talked, drank, and got to know some of our safari guides as they joined in on our drinking games. At about 2330 a few of us went over to some nearby bungalows that some SASers were staying in. We continued the festivities with them and I got to meet all new people in the bungalow (their names were Billy, Pete, Trisha, Britney, Hanna, and Jimmy). They taught us some drinking game called 7’s, 11’s, and double’s- good times! I finally decided to call it a night at 0200 since I had to be up again at 0415. I went back to my tent to go to sleep and all I could hear is the boy in the tent next to me snoring as loud as ever…let’s just say I had a miserable night’s sleep.
February 22, 2008- Day 4
Only 2 hours of sleep…it’s worth it though, I am only in South Africa for a few days. I’ll catch up on sleep in a few days. Today we were woken up at 0415, it is our last day doing our safari so I got up all excited to go on another game drive. For my last game drive I got to go with the guide Edwin- best guide ever!!! Edwin took us on a drive an hour away from our campground. He took us to the capital of Kruger; since we didn’t have much time, Edwin decided to cut off all the other vehicles and speed the whole way! We were the only car to go there since it was so far away. This time I went in the vehicle with Paloma, Max, Wodka, Andrew, Nikki, and Stephanie. This drive started off like all of our other ones…we got to see some elephants and impalas! We got to watch a beautiful sunrise in the safari. Then I got to see another one of the big 5, the BLACK RHINO, which are very rare to see! I also got to see a wildebeest on this drive. So we are on our way to the capital of Kruger to try to see some hippos and all of a sudden someone in my car spots a leopard in the bushes. We stop the car and we are all just looking at the leopard, snapping away at the pictures- we are so excited because this is the only animal left of the big 5 that we hadn’t seen, and most people don’t get to see it. So here we are, sitting in an open jeep, so excited to see the leopard. We are about ready to drive away when we see the leopard sprint across the road and attack an impala! The leopard just grabs this impala by the neck, kills it, and takes into the bushes and up into a tree to eat it. WHAT?!?! Not only did we get to see a leopard, but we saw a leopard kill an impala! We saw the leopards mouth filled with impala blood- nature at its finest! I’ve got it all on video. After the leopard killed the impala, all of the other impalas stood around in a big group and made this kind of grunting noise, like a form of a cry, they didn’t run away. We were the only group that got to see a leopard attack and kill another animal, and one of the few groups that even got to see a leopard! I have seen the BIG 5- Elephant, Rhino, Water Bufallo, Lion, and Leopard!!!! We finally made it to the capital of Kruger, where we were supposed to get out and look for some hippos. Since we took so long with the leopard we only had time to run into the shop for a little bit and then head back an hour towards the camp. It was well worth seeing the leopard kill an impala…I’ll see a hippo some other day. On our drive back to the camp, I got to see some pretty looking birds, leopard turtles crossing the streets, 1 hyena, rhinos crossing the street, and zebras…So what did you all do this morning? We got back to the camp for breakfast (yogurt, granola, fresh fruit, and fresh bread) and then packed up our stuff and were back on the road by 1030 for Jo’Burg. We took 2 buses back to the airport and of course I got on the bus with the broken AC…the air was literally colder outside than it was on the bus. Luckily we stopped at the same rest stop on the way back, so I switched buses! By this point of the trip we still had another 3 hours until we would get to the airport so I decided to lay on the floor of the bus and just pass out. We finally made it to the airport…4 hours early! I went with Meggie and a few other girls to a restaurant in the airport and ate some good ‘ole chicken nuggets and French fries. When we got on line to board the plane, we found out that our plane was delayed an hour, and they were bumping random people off our flight because of a “weight issue” …not me though! Let me tell you a little bit about my flight on Kulula airlines. Our stewardess makes an announcement that they have overbooked the flight and they need some extra seats. She then goes on to say “First one to ring your call bell gets to sit in the cockpit.” So being an American and all I thought this was a joke, but no, the stewardess was 100% SERIOUS! The guy sitting behind me got to sit in the cockpit for the flight back to Capetown! When I asked the stewardess if we could switch half way through the flight she goes “Sorry mam we don’t like Americans. You’re the reason we have this whole close door policy anyways.” Oh well. We made it back to the ship at 0010. What a day!
February 23, 2008
Today I woke up at 0915 to go SHARK CAGE DIVING with the great white shatk projects! We had a 2-hour cab ride to wherever this shark cage diving place was. They take us on this little boat out into the ocean to see the sharks. There is a cage that holds 4 people attached to the boat that the divers go into. So we get out to where we need to be on the water and we take turns going in the cage. I was in the last group to go in the cage, so I got to see the sharks from the boat first. They are some scary looking animals that I definitely would not want to get in a fight with. I went in the cage last with Andrew, Andres, and Hilton. We all had to wear wet suits to go into the cage because the water was freezing, it was 16 degrees Celsius…my hands and feet were so cold! On my first attempt to get a wet suit on, the guy handed me a size too small and was convinced that I could squeeze into it…it didn’t happen, it was meant for someone like 5’2”, so I had to put on an already used, wet, wet suit…what a sight! So I finally got to go into the shark cage! The guy on the ship used Tuna as bait, and lots of Chum to attract the Great Whites. Whenever the shark came near the bait, which was in front of the cage, the guy on the boat would scream “DIVERS GO DOWN” and we would have to hold our breath and go down to the bottom of the cage to look at the great whites. The sharks were literally 3 feet away from my face…it was so cool! It’s hard to describe how the sharks look when you actually see them underwater and so close- they were huge and really mean looking. Shark diving took up most of our day, we left at 1700.
For dinner, a group of about 20 of us went to a place called Moyo (look it up online, or better yet come to South Africa and go to this place…it is amazing). Moyo is a restaurant that is in a tree house in the winelands. The restaurant holds up to 1,500 people, and is buffet style. I decided to be adventurous tonight and try some new foods that I actually liked. I tried ostrich, lamb chop, African pudding, and some more South African wines! The people that work at the restaurant come around and paint your face with some Afrikaans symbol and they provide you with blankets to keep you warm. The atmosphere is absolutely amazing and is like nothing I had ever seen before. After dinner, our cab driver dropped us all off on Long Street for our last night in port- PARTY time. We went back to Dubliner where we once again found most of the SAS kids. We all just danced and drank the whole night. I got to meet a group of locals that go to University of Cape Town, there names were Ross and Adam, I don’t remember the other’s names. They bought me a south African shot that consisted of a shot of Jack Daniels and a shot of guava juice and you mix them around In your mouth…YUMMY! I made it back to the ship at 0400 to find Andy and Adam sitting in the staircase watching Tennesse take 1st place in basketball! I finally went to sleep at 0600. Only 1 day left in Capetown L, I don’t want to leave!
February 24, 2008- My last day in Capetown, I don’t want to leave
Today I went to this market in Capetown that is only open on Sundays. People set up different stands at the market and were selling different hand made crafts. It was amazing to see the many talents of the people of Africa. I shopped around for a few hours with Candice and Kristin and found some cool African things to bring home. Candice, Kristin and I came back to the ship by 1430 to take a taxi to the Botanical Gardens for a local Afrikaans concert. We met up with a group of SAS kids and just set up blankets and towels and lay on the grass, ate, drank, and hung out until the concert began at 1730. The atmosphere was beautiful. We walked around to look at all the different flowers, landscaping, etc. The view of the mountain and the city of Cape Town was amazing. Finally at 1730 we enjoyed some local Afrikaans music and headed back to the ship at 1800 to do some last minute shopping in the mall and make it back on the ship by on-ship time, 2000. A local Afrikaans high school choir came onto the ship to sing songs for all of the students at 2030. What amazing voices they had. They sang some songs in English, some in Afrikaans, and some in Khoso (the click language). It is amazing to me that not only these children, but even our tour guides, and most of the Afrikaans people speak at least 2 to 3 languages. That is one thing that I am envious of; it makes me realize how ignorant most Americans are, we just expect everyone else to speak our language and if they don’t, we become frustrated.
I had an AMAZING time in South Africa! I hope to come back here in the near future and work in the townships and get to know more about the culture. There is just so much to do in South Africa, I wish I had more time. I tried my best to describe everything I saw and did in South Africa, but it is really hard to put all of my experiences in words.
Onto Mauritius…